anticipation

It starts with the birds, my alarm clock...and/or a poor nights sleep, a cup of tea in the half light and a glance out the window hoping the tree in the front yard is bending out, away from the house, its branches pointing the way, a mangled finger gesturing "north" - a good sign.

Then, its the moment as it rise up the terrace, turning left, looking left, and seeing whats stacking up on the horizon, hoping, for a tangeble line, but barely, indicating a smaller swell, a manageable surf, when i get not to think, just do.

Then its left at the lights, looking down to dog beach, gauging the position of the tide...all this time variables running though my mind, somewhat unconciouslessly, shoot a quick glance right as i cruise past murfs, knowing he's shut, but looking anyways.

Then i turn left...up the rise, and down, and the vista opens up, and i get to see whether my calculations, and ponderings are correct, and whether my hope has been rewarded...not so this morning, not here, not right now anyway....thats fine

I shoot into the dunes, my coffee card is full, i get a freebie and dash back out, the tides filling, and that other "sweet" place might have a wave...I park behind the tree, hiding the car.

Its small, how i like it... and empty...i like that too...not perfect in the truest sense of the word, but not too straight, and running a little along the bar.

I only have two waves, but they are long, and i ride them motionless....try not to try too hard.

When i get out, my coffee is still warm.