Thursday, August 26, 2010
Friday, August 20, 2010
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Friday, July 2, 2010
morning texture
there was too many in the water already at dawn this morning, a wintery posso's dawn.
I'm favoring the "other place" . that great little righthander that is working right now.
Still, posso's remains my morning ritual.
I'm favoring the "other place" . that great little righthander that is working right now.
Still, posso's remains my morning ritual.
Monday, June 7, 2010
inside out
This morning, on Ron's advice, andymac and my good self paddled out to an empty outside posso's - having always favored the inside side of things, it took a little to get in place, too wide, to deep, then i found it... whilst i didnt surf my best i sure enjoyed myself. Keith joined us, Lochie too, and we all shared a few great waves, the crowd grew by four after an hour or so - long paddle back to insides, which by then had thinned in crowd to 4 or 5, and we carried on the good work.
I surfed today for nearly 4 hours
Today at posso's a whale came in close
I shared waves with friends
I sure am tired now
Tired
...and happy
I surfed today for nearly 4 hours
Today at posso's a whale came in close
I shared waves with friends
I sure am tired now
Tired
...and happy
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