Thursday, August 26, 2010

Friday, August 20, 2010

Thursday, August 19, 2010

todays swell

with the wind and rain, 
combined to this, 
a quick two pics from the drivers seat.
click me

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Friday, July 2, 2010

morning texture

there was too many in the water already at dawn this morning, a wintery posso's dawn.
I'm favoring the "other place" . that great little righthander that is working right now.
Still, posso's remains my morning ritual.

Monday, June 7, 2010

inside out

This morning, on Ron's advice, andymac and my good self paddled out to an empty outside posso's - having always favored the inside side of things, it took a little to get in place, too wide, to deep, then i found it... whilst i didnt surf my best i sure enjoyed myself. Keith joined us, Lochie too, and we all shared a few great waves, the crowd grew by four after an hour or so - long paddle back to insides, which by then had thinned in crowd to 4 or 5, and we carried on the good work.
I surfed today for nearly 4 hours
Today at posso's a whale came in close
I shared waves with friends
I sure am tired now
Tired
...and happy

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