humble pie makes other pies taste better

i got humbled this morning. Its good every now and then, to push yourself a little further - try a little harder, suck it up.
Winki is a quick wave, quicker than most of the reefs ive surfed, quicker than the majority of sandbars, steeper.

I stayed out until i'd looked in the face, bared it down, a ridden two, then I got the lip on the back of my head, and thrown out, clear of the wave. My neck is stiff.

So i run back round to possos, understanding its other moniker "chicken reef" - and got a few of a more comforting size.

pommie logger - dry docked again

today was a little humbling.

not huge posso's - super fun. left the house had 5.30, snuck off without telling anyone, a little surf with just my own thoughts, with the plan to meet the others at grove later for a more sociable splash.
4 great waves in - having a ball, i get caught inside, no drama at first, the next wave breaks outside and rumbles in, bigger than the previous waves, rips the board from my hands like it was a matchstick, and leggie snaps like dental floss, i take one on the head and find myself getting intimate with the reef, snap goes a finger, and with it no small amount of pain, all of sudden i cant swim, it HURTS.
Thanks to a nearby logger i get the water out my lungs and back to my board, back to the beach.

No the finger really hurts.

Broken in a few places.

seperated tendon.

Surgery tomorrow for reattachment and pinning the bone back together.

Threats of a cast for 6 weeks.

Bummer.

possos left

todays swell

with the wind and rain, 

combined to this, 

a quick two pics from the drivers seat.

click me

click me

photos

 

This morning the fog was heavy, and the air wet.
All signs pointed to impossible.
But first i caught the essence of the morning in this, the photo above. A promise of warm sun.


Down the bumpy road. Skies now blue, braced, I stood on the drying reef and shot the following...