punter

satisfying being back blogging…going through the archives of unposted material and found this air punter.

humble pie makes other pies taste better

i got humbled this morning. Its good every now and then, to push yourself a little further - try a little harder, suck it up.
Winki is a quick wave, quicker than most of the reefs ive surfed, quicker than the majority of sandbars, steeper.

I stayed out until i'd looked in the face, bared it down, a ridden two, then I got the lip on the back of my head, and thrown out, clear of the wave. My neck is stiff.

So i run back round to possos, understanding its other moniker "chicken reef" - and got a few of a more comforting size.

taking photographs

In the light of having a few photos rejected of late, ive been thinking about what makes a "great" photo. Its obviously subjective... and this is something im slowly learning. If you want to publish, if you want to sell, then maybe you dont always shoot what you love, but love just shooting, and to capture, to stylize.

Im fond of taking pictures of loggers, of people i know, of unmolested waves. But these are for me - and most likely dont appeal to many beyond me, and the subjects.

So yesterday, i shot some white pointy boards, going vertical, throwing spray - and i love what i came up with 500 pared down to 3 - they most likely wont appeal to anyone, so sit on my desktop, for me to look at, admire what some people can do with a bit of foam and fibreglass and a decent set of balls.

heres one...

straight shooting

winki air

some dude was boosting some great airs at winki, and landing them...which is always nice

winki

winki tonight

So i had a little bodysurf this morning with the handplane, swell was small and week - but it was building, and build it did...
These are from tonight at winki
Ed Sloane was there, im sure his pictures will be amazing....

ed's blog