lucky

a trip down the coast paid off, with more time spent in uncrowded water than out of it - a hot night in the back of the van, and a dawn swim at separation creek, before a short hike to an uncrowded bank - a K each way of empty water and empty beach, no footprints.

here are some pictures...

 as is, no photoshop, no pst process whatsoever - just beautiful morning light

 the source of the colour in the picture above

 i could tell you where it is, but then i'd have to kill you - suffice to say, on one of the great weekends, this spot was empty, and firing - lets call it lyceum

the pot at the end of.

surfing eddie

my friend eddie
i first surfed with him, climbed with him, travelled with him...
he's a fun dude

2 recent favorites and this mornings thoughts

this morning i slept in - for the first time in weeks - it felt good - ive been sleep deprived by both passions and by persistant insomnia, it has its uses - not missing a good dawnie - but comes at a cost. So now, refereshed, with a incoming tide a few foot of swell - im invigorated.

You sea! I resign myself to you also - I guess what you mean,

I behold from the beach your crooked inviting fingers,

I believe you refuse to go back without feeling of me, 

We must have a turn together, I undress, hurry me out of sight of the land, 

Cushion me soft, rock me in billowy drowse, 

Dash me with amorous wet, I can repay you. Sea of stretch'd ground-swells

(walt whitman - song of myself)

slow to heal, but not that slow

the day started beautifully with a few peelers at semi crowded poss. But it was fun - its was out of this world to be back in the brine.

The board is back, the knee held up, just...and took the small ones, stood tall, and trimmed. and thats is.

The afternoon saw a few waves had at backwash alley, Grove at high tide. Still, fun.

Here are two shots of one of my favorite dudes to share a wave with...loves to wait, watch, hoot, and above all, go left!

lee and ben - possos stylin

lee and ben posso's stylin from craig harvey on Vimeo.

some days

some days all you need is this.

 

  

old possos fun

similar was had yesterday, at grove, possos and roadknight.

monday mornings

light winds but a lazy start to the work day have ruined my chances of beginning the day with a few waves, - note to self - must make more effort on Monday mornings.