surfing dreams
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Monday, April 26, 2010
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Thursday, April 22, 2010
photos
This morning the fog was heavy, and the air wet.
All signs pointed to impossible.
But first i caught the essence of the morning in this, the photo above. A promise of warm sun.
Down the bumpy road. Skies now blue, braced, I stood on the drying reef and shot the following...
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Patience, hope and painkillers
Today was mixed.
The sun shone and the wind was straight north, as a passenger I suggested posso's, why not, worth a look, the first nudge of a new swell, cylinders was looking good, so worth the drive.
We get there, the beachcomber was getting some fun ones, so my companion paddled out, I called in a friend who brought me drinks and sat in the sun as i watched two buddies and a an assortment of others catch a few good ones.
Sasha and Jordan turned up, and posso's turned on, the wind got a little more west and the the waves contined to roll in through the tide. it looked awesome.
Meanwhile, I sat out, leg in brace, heart heavy, and watched great waves roll through, heard the hoots, saw the pleasure on the faces through the viewfinder.
Im telling myself that this is ok, that i will manage this, this long long wait of healing, but my insides today were telling a different story.
Its painful, in more ways than one, for one there are painkillers, for the other there is patience, and hope.
one more indignity, the computers have been fixed, the data has been transferred.
I get some awesome video today of Lee, sasha, Jordan, Andy, Keith...and then its disappears.
Feeling kinda cursed.
The sun shone and the wind was straight north, as a passenger I suggested posso's, why not, worth a look, the first nudge of a new swell, cylinders was looking good, so worth the drive.
We get there, the beachcomber was getting some fun ones, so my companion paddled out, I called in a friend who brought me drinks and sat in the sun as i watched two buddies and a an assortment of others catch a few good ones.
Sasha and Jordan turned up, and posso's turned on, the wind got a little more west and the the waves contined to roll in through the tide. it looked awesome.
Meanwhile, I sat out, leg in brace, heart heavy, and watched great waves roll through, heard the hoots, saw the pleasure on the faces through the viewfinder.
Im telling myself that this is ok, that i will manage this, this long long wait of healing, but my insides today were telling a different story.
Its painful, in more ways than one, for one there are painkillers, for the other there is patience, and hope.
one more indignity, the computers have been fixed, the data has been transferred.
I get some awesome video today of Lee, sasha, Jordan, Andy, Keith...and then its disappears.
Feeling kinda cursed.
Monday, April 19, 2010
injured
So Saturdays surf, fun filled, 5 hours logged on the log.
Sunday rolls round, not quite as clean but still some nicely sized waves rolling in.
I paddle out to the left of the boat ramp.
Its busy.
I take off and trim down the line.
A canoe(ist) is in the shallows so i kick out nice and early, to avoid dings in heads, angry words etc.
Kapow!
I discover in the emergency department this morning that i have a tear in my Medial Cruciate Ligament.
I go back in 4 weeks to see what state the ACL is in.
Brace for 4 weeks.
Physio.
8 weeks landlocked.
Unhappy.
Sunday rolls round, not quite as clean but still some nicely sized waves rolling in.
I paddle out to the left of the boat ramp.
Its busy.
I take off and trim down the line.
A canoe(ist) is in the shallows so i kick out nice and early, to avoid dings in heads, angry words etc.
Kapow!
I discover in the emergency department this morning that i have a tear in my Medial Cruciate Ligament.
I go back in 4 weeks to see what state the ACL is in.
Brace for 4 weeks.
Physio.
8 weeks landlocked.
Unhappy.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
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