Friday, December 30, 2011

2011 comes to a close

It is the end of 2011. Its been a full year for me, I have learnt a great deal about myself, and now find myself on the eve of 2012 with more questions than answers.

This year, I have taken more photo's than other years. Here is a few choice snaps from 2011:















I have also shaped a few boards - these are they:











The last few weeks have been especially challenging, in lots of ways - personally. I am once again viscerally reminded of the distance from home, from friends and family and I am feeling that gulf acutely. If i could swim it, i would, tomorrow.

As for surfing, which this blog is about principly, there has been loss there - the ocean still revives me, and fills my life with something i am unable to adequately explain, but the act of riding a wave on a surfboard, has been caught up in too many other things other than purely the act in itself - my mind is much in the picture again, cluttered with other things other. Symptomatic of other things I am sure. The influx of people into my small home town give me the excuse i need right now to step back and remind myself of why.



Saturday, December 24, 2011

christmas stick

born on christmas eve - for a good friends surprise christmas gift

Merry Christmas everyone!!!



Monday, December 19, 2011

a swim

The onshores just wont let up - still - there is fun to be found - and the water, like usual, cleanses...completely.
video


hell or high water

thanks to Billy (billys blog) for pointed out this rad movie is available now on the surf network
Super stoked for this flick

Saturday, December 17, 2011

pommie

 today was easterly, and lame mushy windswell - but i surfed regardless - it was fun



Friday, December 16, 2011

finding a little quietness on a busy day

a quiet bank along the long road

boyd is bloggin


he's bloggin! - he's shaping, his loggin!
great to see "that" board high speed trimming along "that" sandbar just down the road
i can testify - that green thing of his just flies

I know what i want next

LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...