Saturday, April 27, 2013

Friday, April 26, 2013



in some ways ive been lazy, i havent posted much recently, havent taken the photographs off my memory card since bells, havent felt much like posting, thinking, editing.

In other ways, super busy, fixed the dings in my surfboard, been running most nights of the week, logging 25k's a week in training for my race in september.

Ive been homesick, however thats had benefit, forcing me to look over images of my home town, listen to music "grown" there. appreciating where i come from, despite not being there right now.

And I HAVE been taking photographs, lots of them, ive been using instagram alot, just because of the convieience, but i miss the opportunities the blog gives me to explain how and why I arrive at taking the photographs i do, the thoughts that have been boucing around my head for a few days, that inspire me to go out with the camera.

One morning, a few weeks ago, the sun was low, burning the sand orange a red, and silhouettes were everywhere.

I liked these four.

Sunday, April 14, 2013

my van

sadly, my van has got to go...

Its an awesome machine, and i'll be sad to say goodbye, but the growing family requires a more sensible vehicle. If anyone knows anyone who might be interested, give me a buzz 0450921804.

I'll be good with price for fellow surfers! (and throw in a handplane and a set of roofbars)!

Friday, April 12, 2013

Once upon a time

I used to surf this with 2-3 others max. Today, I shared it with 10 that number. 20 people + 2-3 wave sets. Took a while to find your wave. But worth it, they had speed, a face, and a long wall. Like possos but with deeper water and bigger cliffs. A mix in the crowd of agitated short boarders, a couple f longboarders riding them like short boards, and me. On a heavy.

I got my waves. I go home happy. But pixies has seen its day when it was a quiet escape I think.

Monday, April 8, 2013


takes my breath away some mornings.

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

too easy

lee, surfing possos, making it all look easy, one of the signs of a great surfer.


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