Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Sunday, July 29, 2012


A chopping board, made by Lauras brother when he was at trade school many years ago, and a really good penknife.
Theres not much more needed on a trip of the kind we have just undertaken, however, inevitably I packed more than necessary. Again, lesson 1, travel light(er).
I have the T-shirt, but am a sucker for perceived convenience.

The night before last we slept in Mystery Bay. Its a spot i've overnighted before - a strip of bush next to a creek, 100m from two bays, facing in slightly different directions, but neither this time delivering the goods - alas.

Still, a good campfire, practicing our whittling and knife throwing skills (for what I dont know, but im sure it has some deep signficance for a life we are yet to lead) was a good enough way to spend the evening - and now I sit in the warmth of a cabin, having had a poor nights sleep, and wish I was back out under the stars. In a few hours we begin our journey home, this trip has been a good one - surf, food, the search for that elusive "good" coffee in every other state than VIC - which was as sucessful as it was not - and the road, ive enjoyed the road so much this time. My wife makes the greatest travelling companion there is, no complaints with long drops, handy with a hatchet, and patient with my many diversions down bumpy tracks and walks over windswept dunes for "that" wave, that was as elusive as the coffee.

like i said, a good chopping board and a decent penknife are all you need, (and a hatchet for the wife, if she chops wood like mine)

Friday, July 27, 2012

A day of two halves

What a day, more to come on narrowly avoided bummer moves, however silver linings, empty caves beach, 2ft of clean swell and a skinny dip with a little shark! What a day...

Wednesday, July 25, 2012


The day starts early in Byron... We're hitting the road for points south, as the splendor crowds pull in to town, we roll out. I have a new tarp, hatchet and penknife, so am equity to deal with whatever life can throw at me.
I'm hoping for a splash at angourie on the little board, if not, I'll fish and built a fire. Simple things.

Tuesday, July 24, 2012


A man let us walk around his garden...

Monday, July 23, 2012

Noosa to Byron

So we woke this morning to a tiny noosa, and overcast skies...funny, I'm sure ti tree would have been fun, but after coffee... The road felt more appealing, drove through surfers just so I felt relieved to leave, and wound down the coast to snapper/kirra, was offshore and predictably crowded, so a parmi on the deck of the surf club sufficed... That's where the shot below is from, killer lookout.
So now I lie rested in the back of the van, waiting for the better half to shower, listening to The Pass unfurl along it's loooong point. Tide is too high right now, but dusk should be all time, keen to bodysurf here. I figured the crowds would be worse, fun peaks and noone really riding them. Fingers crossed it drops a little overnight, a foot less and it looks like it'll be awesome.

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Noosa mornings.

This morning I scored noosa 1st point, with two other loggers and me. The swell was small 1-2ft but glassy. I've missed surfing in boardies... The locals were super friendly, shooting the breeze in the carpark, few tips, "workers coffee" get you your morning livener for cheap.
I could not surf again this trip and go home happy, but I won't... I'll surf again later, and regardless, it'll be good

Saturday, July 14, 2012

little rincon

nick racing one, and robbie hitting one, glad i got out the water to shoot these dudes

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

seriously rad - the butterknife peacock

from the "Thomas" files...  http://surfersgarden.blogspot.com.au/


my surf last night was one of the good ones.

I got home from work a little early, the lucky ones who had the day off had had their fill, the beach had quietened, and the wind had gotten good - a gentle NE, grooming the small waves, a few peaks up and down the beach. the tide was a little full, so the backwash was creating some speedbumps to nagivate, but as the afternoon became early evening, the tide pulled out, and things got good.

I was left of boat ramp, my favorite little spot at main when its small, getting those loooooong runs down to the far stairs.

Shared a few with a quiet, understated super logger, Robbie - robbie has a quiet elegance when he rides, picks his waves well, and is quick and nimble on his feet, and a super dude to boot - fun trading waves and talking boards with someone who likes their equipment refined but simple.

We both had a little handplane session after too, which was nice...i love the feeling that a good bodysurf gives you, so different to surfing, but easily its equal.

So, im fueled up, satisfied, but not completely, because can you ever be?

Now, i have tomorrow off - and the forecast is for 2ft and NW, so im eager and excited and hungry for some more...and this is dangerous - expectations are the mother of all fuckups.

Since no post is complete without a pic, here's me and the missus, waves or no waves, she's the constant joy...

check the rad cardigan - pommie's stylin!


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