Wednesday, May 19, 2010

slow to heal, but not that slow

the day started beautifully with a few peelers at semi crowded poss. But it was fun - its was out of this world to be back in the brine.

The board is back, the knee held up, just...and took the small ones, stood tall, and trimmed. and thats is.

The afternoon saw a few waves had at backwash alley, Grove at high tide. Still, fun.

Here are two shots of one of my favorite dudes to share a wave with...loves to wait, watch, hoot, and above all, go left!

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

its back!

first of all, big thanks to everyone paid interest to the terrible theft, and kept them peeled for the missing log, posting pictures on blogs, having posters in shop windows, and being nice to me when i wandered around like a miserly miserable log bereft man. Im grateful, and reminded daily why i live here. This community, of which i am a very new arrival has been welcoming, generous and warm since the day i arrived. The theft of the board shook that, but didnt change it, it was still an amazing place, and still is. I love where i live and i love being around the people that love it too. So thanks again.

So, i was sat in the living room, miserly still, missing the board, sorting out documents for the insurance man who is coming tomorrow...Mr. Boyd steps through the gate with a slight smile and gestures "come here" with a single jaw drops..."no" im mouthing...he's nodding and smiling...the board is back!

It was found by a lady walking her dog down Collendina way, behind the caravan park, hiding in the dunes...she dug it down, saw the logo, located Dave, and Dave picked it up and brought it home.
Big Big Big thanks to Bromwyn, the dog walking superhero.
Big Big Big thanks to Dave for bringing it straight home.
And Big Big Big thanks to everyone again.
Everything is awesome once more!

Saturday, May 8, 2010


Some lowlife stole my log last night from the carport
If anyone sees it around please let me know 0450921804.
Appreciated people.
Lock your shit up!


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