the day started beautifully with a few peelers at semi crowded poss. But it was fun - its was out of this world to be back in the brine.
The board is back, the knee held up, just...and took the small ones, stood tall, and trimmed. and thats is.
The afternoon saw a few waves had at backwash alley, Grove at high tide. Still, fun.
Here are two shots of one of my favorite dudes to share a wave with...loves to wait, watch, hoot, and above all, go left!
No comments:
Post a Comment