today was a little humbling.
not huge posso's - super fun. left the house had 5.30, snuck off without telling anyone, a little surf with just my own thoughts, with the plan to meet the others at grove later for a more sociable splash.
4 great waves in - having a ball, i get caught inside, no drama at first, the next wave breaks outside and rumbles in, bigger than the previous waves, rips the board from my hands like it was a matchstick, and leggie snaps like dental floss, i take one on the head and find myself getting intimate with the reef, snap goes a finger, and with it no small amount of pain, all of sudden i cant swim, it HURTS.
Thanks to a nearby logger i get the water out my lungs and back to my board, back to the beach.
No the finger really hurts.
Broken in a few places.
Surgery tomorrow for reattachment and pinning the bone back together.
Threats of a cast for 6 weeks.
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Saturday, September 18, 2010
Friday, September 10, 2010
this morning i slept in - for the first time in weeks - it felt good - ive been sleep deprived by both passions and by persistant insomnia, it has its uses - not missing a good dawnie - but comes at a cost. So now, refereshed, with a incoming tide a few foot of swell - im invigorated.
You sea! I resign myself to you also - I guess what you mean,
I behold from the beach your crooked inviting fingers,
I believe you refuse to go back without feeling of me,
We must have a turn together, I undress, hurry me out of sight of the land,
Cushion me soft, rock me in billowy drowse,
Dash me with amorous wet, I can repay you. Sea of stretch'd ground-swells
(walt whitman - song of myself)