winki air

some dude was boosting some great airs at winki, and landing them...which is always nice

lee

great light this morning, and some fun made of the tiny peelers - lee, doing his thing

greg

charges when the surf is on

yesterdays colour

the cold place

sure delivers the goods

Another fine day

another backyarder

raz has shaped a log ~ its REALLY nice - here it is, with its proud creator - Go raz!

days like these

empty(ish) like it should be

pleasing

I'm pleased today - with lots of things, of surfs to come, climbs awaiting.... of pending holidays, with work and the difference i sometimes get to make - with my photography. I might not be making any money from it, from none of the above. I'm certainly not aspiring to do so either - but when i get home and have a look at what ive shot, even if i have to play with it and apply some filters, colour balance etc....im pleased with the memory ive managed to "catch".

Late arrival

Swell that's been forecast has arrived. Noones on it.

existance preceeds essence - its frightening

dawkins said:

“There is something infantile in the presumption that somebody else has a responsibility to give your life meaning and point… The truly adult view, by contrast, is that our life is as meaningful, as full and as wonderful as we choose to make it.”
― Richard Dawkins, The God Delusion

But sometimes "it" lacks meaning - sometimes a simple conversation is enough, or not enough, to put things into tailspin - but this serves as a reminder of what is truely important, and where the importance of ones place in the world, is measured, worthy and regarded.

Existentialism is a humanism, to borrow from sartre.

this, amongst more..is important

two surfers and a lesser surfed spot for the pommie

a couple of loggers making it look so much better than it was - the way great surfers do

 tim - putting the old mal through its paces, getting ready for the weekend no doubt

chad - i've a few pictures of chad doing this exact thing...the position of the right hand, the rest of the sequence shows him drop his arm as the wave shuts down, like a magican - style

as for me - i stayed dry until tonight, and down at one of my more secluded spots i scored some fun peelers into the weedbank! - fun times with just a few.

right place - right time

...thats all it requires, getting to the right spot when everything alines, and keeping ones expectations low.

playtime

managed to score some great fun waves this morning - the sun was up, the crowd was light, the people
were fun, murf's cut his hair, there was some 90210 banter flying about, and everyone was styling.

its a great thing to grab coffee, shoot down the road 2 minutes and play like this, as the water came in the waves got better, i scored a few real fun ones that put a smile on my face.

then I came home, and the washing machine broke, but after my mornings start, i couldn't care less, thats what surfing does some days, it puts life into perspective...