playtime

managed to score some great fun waves this morning - the sun was up, the crowd was light, the people
were fun, murf's cut his hair, there was some 90210 banter flying about, and everyone was styling.

its a great thing to grab coffee, shoot down the road 2 minutes and play like this, as the water came in the waves got better, i scored a few real fun ones that put a smile on my face.

then I came home, and the washing machine broke, but after my mornings start, i couldn't care less, thats what surfing does some days, it puts life into perspective...

waiting

Havent surfed in what feels like ages, but ive been having other fun, trying to improve my climbing grade.
still, when i capture moments like these, I yearn for a quiet session...maybe my second favorite place will fire tomorrow

playground

right on the low...at that place