Showing posts with label not so secret secret spots. Show all posts
Showing posts with label not so secret secret spots. Show all posts

Monday, January 14, 2013

quietude

[ˈkwaɪəˌtjuːd] n the state or condition of being quiet, peaceful, calm, or tranquil

the crowds prove to me, i live in a pretty unique corner of the world - let them have it for their 6 weeks in the sun...

There is always places like this, at times like this, even amid the crowds, solitude aint so hard to find.

A morning swim with the wobbigong sharks


Saturday, June 9, 2012

right place - right time

...thats all it requires, getting to the right spot when everything alines, and keeping ones expectations low.


Saturday, June 2, 2012

playtime

managed to score some great fun waves this morning - the sun was up, the crowd was light, the people
were fun, murf's cut his hair, there was some 90210 banter flying about, and everyone was styling.

its a great thing to grab coffee, shoot down the road 2 minutes and play like this, as the water came in the waves got better, i scored a few real fun ones that put a smile on my face.

then I came home, and the washing machine broke, but after my mornings start, i couldn't care less, thats what surfing does some days, it puts life into perspective...









Wednesday, October 26, 2011

midlength

nick enjoying a small one down the beach a little

Friday, September 16, 2011

Theres been loads of these tiny birds along the beach recently - not sure what they are, but they are fast and seem pretty busy. i snapped one. not literally, that would be hideous.
 Oh yeah, great waves at my favorite spot this morning, just a few out - and then grove with crowds, but fun all the same.


Saturday, September 18, 2010

when the coast is battered and the wind is SW

there are spots of tranquility - hidden in plain view

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