Thursday, January 31, 2013

another surfing life

I surfed in the UK for a long time, a weekend warrior, my skills neer really impriving despite what I told myself and others - but I had a nice quiver, i wish i still had those boards. recent digging through old boxes, i came across a snap of my old quiver...
I remeber each board well, from left to right:
a beachbeat - chops lacelles (chops himself) mini mal, 8ft something, quite thin, but with enough float to get me onto waves, i loved it, it was the board that made a difference.

Next up - a second skin minimal, eds stick - was manufactured under the second skin brand, more famous for custom wetsuits in the UK, the chap that runs this outfit, Andy Schollik wears a tape around his neck like a true tailor, ive had a few of his suits, Yakamoto rubber, excellent suits, too damn hot for these aussie waters but they served me well. The board was un-distinctive, and I never rode it much, but ed always flew on it! (second skin)

The log - a Gulf Stream 9'2" - 60/40 rails, pinched, a long concave, 2+1 fin set up - I never rode the nose on this, but I enjoyed surfing it, it wasnt a log, more a semi performance longboard. Gulf Stream make wonderful surfboards, and their glassing is second to none. They used to encourage you to touch their boards, not so much anymore. I was always a big fan of their stuff. Last time I was in the UK I called in, and the atmosphere seemed to have changed, maybe not, maybe my perspective has, I'm used to surf shops now, used to them being friendly to the point of intrusiveness, used to pulling up a stool and taking waves with friends and strangers alike, sharing opinion and advice and conjecture on surfboards...Gulfstream felt like a museum, austere. I tried conversation about "Saunton tail" I'm intrigued by the design, a Nuuhiva looking wide tail, but noone seems to want to chat, shame that, still, they are still doing lovely boards. (gulf stream) TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL????

And finally, the first board I owned, the worst thing I could ever have owned at time - a "mango" shortboard, 6'10" from memory. i remember buying it, well, ed bought it for me at the time I think...froma shop that now sells carpet in Braunton, at the top of the hill on the right hand side...the guy sold it to us, a pair of them, to learn on! - they seemed to have disappeared now. I couldnt comment on its function as I never caught a wave of any merit on it. They two of them blew off the roof one day as we were driving down the motorway, and we took up climbing and stopped surfing for weekend, years later, we were down the coast once again, to climb maybe, maybe just to drink, and wandered into second skin, him if wetusit tailor fame, and got properly advised, bought two minimals and two suits and never turned back...
Many years later, Ed, to return the favor of my lavish spending, suggested a trip to Portugal, and it was then I met my wife, have since emigrated to Australia, taken to surfing with a studious love and passion, learnt to shape my own boards etc... so maybe the 6'10" shortboard was the best thing I ever bought....look at what it has given me?

Sunday, January 27, 2013


old contact sheet - i love developing...

Thursday, January 24, 2013


"spontaneity must be temporal, and temporarily must be consciousness"...(sartre)

I've been thinking about this alot recently...about how this life is only as we describe it...our experience of it is limited only by our abilty to explain it to ourselves, and how this process is unconscious, nonthinking, being, but only described after the the moment, we just,   enjoy...

I wonder what shes "not thinking about"


Pesty's got a write up on Korduroy tv...check it

i caught up with Chris after following each others blogs/photography and whatnot, at the patagonia movie night last week. He's a genuinely awesome dude, who seems to embrace this life, theres a spark in his eyes.

Without knowing him really, at get the idea the world is better place for having people like him in it.

enjoy more of his work here:

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

the prince

keith prince...a stoked individual

Saturday, January 19, 2013

my heart and sea

Last night i saw the new Nathan Oldfield movie - the heart and the sea - Another great patagonia screening with a few donation payment beers, good vibes...

The movie has gotten me thinking about those that I include in my family, those i love, and those dear to me, so many are the on the other side of the world and I get chance to see once every couple of years...its a heartbreaker some days. Im grateful and lucky to have a few on this hemisphere that I'm proud to cal friends and are very important to me.

I also met Pesty last night - ive followed his work ever since I got into this blogging thing, and it was great to actually meet in real life, share a few moments of whats obviously a similar unbridled passion for all things aquatic and beautiful.

And in two weeks my closest buddy, Ed is coming to visit - I get to surf with my oldest surfing compadre.

And in another 6 months an new life will join our family - I will become a father. I cant describe how this makes me feel.

my wife - playing with light

Monday, January 14, 2013


[ˈkwaɪəˌtjuːd] n the state or condition of being quiet, peaceful, calm, or tranquil

the crowds prove to me, i live in a pretty unique corner of the world - let them have it for their 6 weeks in the sun...

There is always places like this, at times like this, even amid the crowds, solitude aint so hard to find.

A morning swim with the wobbigong sharks


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