It is the end of 2011. Its been a full year for me, I have learnt a great deal about myself, and now find myself on the eve of 2012 with more questions than answers.
This year, I have taken more photo's than other years. Here is a few choice snaps from 2011:
I have also shaped a few boards - these are they:
The last few weeks have been especially challenging, in lots of ways - personally. I am once again viscerally reminded of the distance from home, from friends and family and I am feeling that gulf acutely. If i could swim it, i would, tomorrow.
As for surfing, which this blog is about principly, there has been loss there - the ocean still revives me, and fills my life with something i am unable to adequately explain, but the act of riding a wave on a surfboard, has been caught up in too many other things other than purely the act in itself - my mind is much in the picture again, cluttered with other things other. Symptomatic of other things I am sure. The influx of people into my small home town give me the excuse i need right now to step back and remind myself of why.