Thursday, December 12, 2013


for such big birds they sure are graceful

Saturday, December 7, 2013

this surfing life

I am a lucky man. I know this.

A good cloud cover and a stiff northerly this morning, though not cold.

Car parks filling up - with limited peaks along 13th, and already those 'owner-occupier' dudes on their pointy boards were making the most of what was on offer.

Flippers give you a freedom to chose that other surf equipment doesnt. So a walk down the beach proved fruitful.

a significant death

This morning i learned that a close friend, an inspiration and the reason i feel the way i do about harm reduction - died.

His loss will be felt by more people that he would ever imagine. There are people alive today, having children of their won, thanks to his vision, compassion, immeasrable bravery and bottomless capacity to care.

Insofar as my career, he is the single most important i have had the pleasure of working alongside.

Goodbye Pat.

Friday, December 6, 2013

davin hanna

Davin getting a little one, on the inside - looks like raffs, its actually grove, thats telephoto for you.

Thursday, December 5, 2013

new boards

Here is belinda, maybe a month back, having a go at possos. She was hanging about the inside, catching the ones that others were leaving behind, and as a reuslt got some nice ones.

Shes riding a new board, a bing lightweight, and finding a feet on it.

We were talking about how hard it can be sometimes to get acquainted with new boards. Some just click, or so i hear, i had that with a short little stumpy thing i shaped, but that has been the only time i've ever had one of those experiences. The joy that comes from riding new equipment is the patience that is required to learn its ins and outs, its quirks.


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