this surfing life

I am a lucky man. I know this.

A good cloud cover and a stiff northerly this morning, though not cold.

Car parks filling up - with limited peaks along 13th, and already those 'owner-occupier' dudes on their pointy boards were making the most of what was on offer.

Flippers give you a freedom to chose that other surf equipment doesnt. So a walk down the beach proved fruitful.

wishes

i wish i could shake this odd feeling...it ephemeral - impossible to define today, articulation is just out of m grasp - but its unsettling me

also, much more pressing...i wish i took this picture...

how awesome is this
Photograph by Mark Tipple

lucky

a trip down the coast paid off, with more time spent in uncrowded water than out of it - a hot night in the back of the van, and a dawn swim at separation creek, before a short hike to an uncrowded bank - a K each way of empty water and empty beach, no footprints.

here are some pictures...

 as is, no photoshop, no pst process whatsoever - just beautiful morning light

 the source of the colour in the picture above

 i could tell you where it is, but then i'd have to kill you - suffice to say, on one of the great weekends, this spot was empty, and firing - lets call it lyceum

the pot at the end of.