Sunday, February 26, 2012


a trip down the coast paid off, with more time spent in uncrowded water than out of it - a hot night in the back of the van, and a dawn swim at separation creek, before a short hike to an uncrowded bank - a K each way of empty water and empty beach, no footprints.

here are some pictures...

 as is, no photoshop, no pst process whatsoever - just beautiful morning light
 the source of the colour in the picture above
 i could tell you where it is, but then i'd have to kill you - suffice to say, on one of the great weekends, this spot was empty, and firing - lets call it lyceum
the pot at the end of.


a good friends wife runs this class at main beach - shes a fun lady with a great energy, get down there if you want to aid your surfing with some yoga.

Friday, February 24, 2012

Friday, February 17, 2012


nick got a few on the big mean green machine this morning
 the anti rocker, template of doom stick

loggin this afternoon at the low tide special

Thursday, February 16, 2012


be content with what you have
rejoice in the way things are
when you realise there is nothing lacking
the whole world belongs to you
lao tzu

the spot at the end of the road, unfettered

Sunday, February 12, 2012



just finished a double hander for the camera to be attached

Saturday, February 11, 2012


chad made a promo clip for dave, check it out - rad, dave makes beautiful boards

Imperial Surfboards Promo - Vic Loggin from chad mclauchlan on Vimeo.


Patagonia hosted a night with Gerry Lopez tonight, and I was lucky to get tickets for a couple of buddies and myself - he was funny, erudite, composed and radiated respect - things i would like to embody

and tonight - this photo was on the screen - and i'm mesmerized by it - completely - composure.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Last night / this morning

Last night big green got an outing, and this morning I saw these old stairs. The world is lit up.

Monday, February 6, 2012


It starts with the birds, my alarm clock...and/or a poor nights sleep, a cup of tea in the half light and a glance out the window hoping the tree in the front yard is bending out, away from the house, its branches pointing the way, a mangled finger gesturing "north" - a good sign.

Then, its the moment as it rise up the terrace, turning left, looking left, and seeing whats stacking up on the horizon, hoping, for a tangeble line, but barely, indicating a smaller swell, a manageable surf, when i get not to think, just do.

Then its left at the lights, looking down to dog beach, gauging the position of the tide...all this time variables running though my mind, somewhat unconciouslessly, shoot a quick glance right as i cruise past murfs, knowing he's shut, but looking anyways.

Then i turn left...up the rise, and down, and the vista opens up, and i get to see whether my calculations, and ponderings are correct, and whether my hope has been rewarded...not so this morning, not here, not right now anyway....thats fine

I shoot into the dunes, my coffee card is full, i get a freebie and dash back out, the tides filling, and that other "sweet" place might have a wave...I park behind the tree, hiding the car.

Its small, how i like it... and empty...i like that too...not perfect in the truest sense of the word, but not too straight, and running a little along the bar.

I only have two waves, but they are long, and i ride them motionless....try not to try too hard.

When i get out, my coffee is still warm.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

the pommie logger

hunting on the inside for fun little peaks

Thursday, February 2, 2012


going to see Benjamin safari's latest flick at surfworld tonight:

its on tomorrow too, go see it, support a local venue and an independant movie maker living the dream


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