Showing posts with label bodysurfing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bodysurfing. Show all posts

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Swimming

Nowadays, body surfing us on my mind. I'm stuck, dichotomous, perplexed and sometimes irritable at some poorly formed paradox in my head, I know what "I" enjoy...it's not the norm, it's not what people think surfing "is". I'd like to think I'm on with that, but a little bit of me isn't. I'm glad, because its a reminder that I'm human, that I'm victim to styles and cultures, but am committed to going my own way regardless.

Still, tomorrow I might try stand up surfing again...

Friday, February 24, 2012

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