Swimming

Nowadays, body surfing us on my mind. I'm stuck, dichotomous, perplexed and sometimes irritable at some poorly formed paradox in my head, I know what "I" enjoy...it's not the norm, it's not what people think surfing "is". I'd like to think I'm on with that, but a little bit of me isn't. I'm glad, because its a reminder that I'm human, that I'm victim to styles and cultures, but am committed to going my own way regardless.

Still, tomorrow I might try stand up surfing again...