another surfing life

I surfed in the UK for a long time, a weekend warrior, my skills neer really impriving despite what I told myself and others - but I had a nice quiver, i wish i still had those boards. recent digging through old boxes, i came across a snap of my old quiver...

I remeber each board well, from left to right:
a beachbeat - chops lacelles (chops himself) mini mal, 8ft something, quite thin, but with enough float to get me onto waves, i loved it, it was the board that made a difference.

Next up - a second skin minimal, eds stick - was manufactured under the second skin brand, more famous for custom wetsuits in the UK, the chap that runs this outfit, Andy Schollik wears a tape around his neck like a true tailor, ive had a few of his suits, Yakamoto rubber, excellent suits, too damn hot for these aussie waters but they served me well. The board was un-distinctive, and I never rode it much, but ed always flew on it! (second skin)

The log - a Gulf Stream 9'2" - 60/40 rails, pinched, a long concave, 2+1 fin set up - I never rode the nose on this, but I enjoyed surfing it, it wasnt a log, more a semi performance longboard. Gulf Stream make wonderful surfboards, and their glassing is second to none. They used to encourage you to touch their boards, not so much anymore. I was always a big fan of their stuff. Last time I was in the UK I called in, and the atmosphere seemed to have changed, maybe not, maybe my perspective has, I'm used to surf shops now, used to them being friendly to the point of intrusiveness, used to pulling up a stool and taking waves with friends and strangers alike, sharing opinion and advice and conjecture on surfboards...Gulfstream felt like a museum, austere. I tried conversation about "Saunton tail" I'm intrigued by the design, a Nuuhiva looking wide tail, but noone seems to want to chat, shame that, still, they are still doing lovely boards. (gulf stream) TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL????

And finally, the first board I owned, the worst thing I could ever have owned at time - a "mango" shortboard, 6'10" from memory. i remember buying it, well, ed bought it for me at the time I think...froma shop that now sells carpet in Braunton, at the top of the hill on the right hand side...the guy sold it to us, a pair of them, to learn on! - they seemed to have disappeared now. I couldnt comment on its function as I never caught a wave of any merit on it. They two of them blew off the roof one day as we were driving down the motorway, and we took up climbing and stopped surfing for years...one weekend, years later, we were down the coast once again, to climb maybe, maybe just to drink, and wandered into second skin, him if wetusit tailor fame, and got properly advised, bought two minimals and two suits and never turned back...
Many years later, Ed, to return the favor of my lavish spending, suggested a trip to Portugal, and it was then I met my wife, have since emigrated to Australia, taken to surfing with a studious love and passion, learnt to shape my own boards etc... so maybe the 6'10" shortboard was the best thing I ever bought....look at what it has given me?

a few of my favorite people

this was the same little group of people that met in an empty camping ground on the beach, prai da guincho - portugal. The surf was wild that day - so beer, wine, barbequed fish and a lunar eclipse filled the day/night - and I met my wife.

So a few years later, the four of us, and a few others, got together in bournville, the birthplace of caburys, and me and the now missus tied the knot.

Good times.

travels

A chopping board, made by Lauras brother when he was at trade school many years ago, and a really good penknife.
Theres not much more needed on a trip of the kind we have just undertaken, however, inevitably I packed more than necessary. Again, lesson 1, travel light(er).
I have the T-shirt, but am a sucker for perceived convenience.

The night before last we slept in Mystery Bay. Its a spot i've overnighted before - a strip of bush next to a creek, 100m from two bays, facing in slightly different directions, but neither this time delivering the goods - alas.

Still, a good campfire, practicing our whittling and knife throwing skills (for what I dont know, but im sure it has some deep signficance for a life we are yet to lead) was a good enough way to spend the evening - and now I sit in the warmth of a cabin, having had a poor nights sleep, and wish I was back out under the stars. In a few hours we begin our journey home, this trip has been a good one - surf, food, the search for that elusive "good" coffee in every other state than VIC - which was as sucessful as it was not - and the road, ive enjoyed the road so much this time. My wife makes the greatest travelling companion there is, no complaints with long drops, handy with a hatchet, and patient with my many diversions down bumpy tracks and walks over windswept dunes for "that" wave, that was as elusive as the coffee.

like i said, a good chopping board and a decent penknife are all you need, (and a hatchet for the wife, if she chops wood like mine)

surfing...and

my surf last night was one of the good ones.

I got home from work a little early, the lucky ones who had the day off had had their fill, the beach had quietened, and the wind had gotten good - a gentle NE, grooming the small waves, a few peaks up and down the beach. the tide was a little full, so the backwash was creating some speedbumps to nagivate, but as the afternoon became early evening, the tide pulled out, and things got good.

I was left of boat ramp, my favorite little spot at main when its small, getting those loooooong runs down to the far stairs.

Shared a few with a quiet, understated super logger, Robbie - robbie has a quiet elegance when he rides, picks his waves well, and is quick and nimble on his feet, and a super dude to boot - fun trading waves and talking boards with someone who likes their equipment refined but simple.

We both had a little handplane session after too, which was nice...i love the feeling that a good bodysurf gives you, so different to surfing, but easily its equal.

So, im fueled up, satisfied, but not completely, because can you ever be?

Now, i have tomorrow off - and the forecast is for 2ft and NW, so im eager and excited and hungry for some more...and this is dangerous - expectations are the mother of all fuckups.

Since no post is complete without a pic, here's me and the missus, waves or no waves, she's the constant joy...

check the rad cardigan - pommie's stylin!

a great day

laura