surfing...and

my surf last night was one of the good ones.

I got home from work a little early, the lucky ones who had the day off had had their fill, the beach had quietened, and the wind had gotten good - a gentle NE, grooming the small waves, a few peaks up and down the beach. the tide was a little full, so the backwash was creating some speedbumps to nagivate, but as the afternoon became early evening, the tide pulled out, and things got good.

I was left of boat ramp, my favorite little spot at main when its small, getting those loooooong runs down to the far stairs.

Shared a few with a quiet, understated super logger, Robbie - robbie has a quiet elegance when he rides, picks his waves well, and is quick and nimble on his feet, and a super dude to boot - fun trading waves and talking boards with someone who likes their equipment refined but simple.

We both had a little handplane session after too, which was nice...i love the feeling that a good bodysurf gives you, so different to surfing, but easily its equal.

So, im fueled up, satisfied, but not completely, because can you ever be?

Now, i have tomorrow off - and the forecast is for 2ft and NW, so im eager and excited and hungry for some more...and this is dangerous - expectations are the mother of all fuckups.

Since no post is complete without a pic, here's me and the missus, waves or no waves, she's the constant joy...

check the rad cardigan - pommie's stylin!