Once upon a time

I used to surf this with 2-3 others max. Today, I shared it with 10 that number. 20 people + 2-3 wave sets. Took a while to find your wave. But worth it, they had speed, a face, and a long wall. Like possos but with deeper water and bigger cliffs. A mix in the crowd of agitated short boarders, a couple f longboarders riding them like short boards, and me. On a heavy.

I got my waves. I go home happy. But pixies has seen its day when it was a quiet escape I think.