Friday, October 8, 2010
this mornings walk
this mornings walk to get a coffee - the light was great, tide was, reef was firing, sort of.
Monday, October 4, 2010
Saturday, October 2, 2010
Friday, October 1, 2010
Saturday, September 25, 2010
pommie logger - dry docked again
today was a little humbling.
not huge posso's - super fun. left the house had 5.30, snuck off without telling anyone, a little surf with just my own thoughts, with the plan to meet the others at grove later for a more sociable splash.
4 great waves in - having a ball, i get caught inside, no drama at first, the next wave breaks outside and rumbles in, bigger than the previous waves, rips the board from my hands like it was a matchstick, and leggie snaps like dental floss, i take one on the head and find myself getting intimate with the reef, snap goes a finger, and with it no small amount of pain, all of sudden i cant swim, it HURTS.
Thanks to a nearby logger i get the water out my lungs and back to my board, back to the beach.
No the finger really hurts.
Broken in a few places.
seperated tendon.
Surgery tomorrow for reattachment and pinning the bone back together.
Threats of a cast for 6 weeks.
Bummer.
not huge posso's - super fun. left the house had 5.30, snuck off without telling anyone, a little surf with just my own thoughts, with the plan to meet the others at grove later for a more sociable splash.
4 great waves in - having a ball, i get caught inside, no drama at first, the next wave breaks outside and rumbles in, bigger than the previous waves, rips the board from my hands like it was a matchstick, and leggie snaps like dental floss, i take one on the head and find myself getting intimate with the reef, snap goes a finger, and with it no small amount of pain, all of sudden i cant swim, it HURTS.
Thanks to a nearby logger i get the water out my lungs and back to my board, back to the beach.
No the finger really hurts.
Broken in a few places.
seperated tendon.
Surgery tomorrow for reattachment and pinning the bone back together.
Threats of a cast for 6 weeks.
Bummer.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
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