humble pie makes other pies taste better

i got humbled this morning. Its good every now and then, to push yourself a little further - try a little harder, suck it up.
Winki is a quick wave, quicker than most of the reefs ive surfed, quicker than the majority of sandbars, steeper.

I stayed out until i'd looked in the face, bared it down, a ridden two, then I got the lip on the back of my head, and thrown out, clear of the wave. My neck is stiff.

So i run back round to possos, understanding its other moniker "chicken reef" - and got a few of a more comforting size.