Today was mixed.
The sun shone and the wind was straight north, as a passenger I suggested posso's, why not, worth a look, the first nudge of a new swell, cylinders was looking good, so worth the drive.
We get there, the beachcomber was getting some fun ones, so my companion paddled out, I called in a friend who brought me drinks and sat in the sun as i watched two buddies and a an assortment of others catch a few good ones.
Sasha and Jordan turned up, and posso's turned on, the wind got a little more west and the the waves contined to roll in through the tide. it looked awesome.
Meanwhile, I sat out, leg in brace, heart heavy, and watched great waves roll through, heard the hoots, saw the pleasure on the faces through the viewfinder.
Im telling myself that this is ok, that i will manage this, this long long wait of healing, but my insides today were telling a different story.
Its painful, in more ways than one, for one there are painkillers, for the other there is patience, and hope.
one more indignity, the computers have been fixed, the data has been transferred.
I get some awesome video today of Lee, sasha, Jordan, Andy, Keith...and then its disappears.
Feeling kinda cursed.
Hey footlong, feeling your pain, its hard to be out of the water, hope the surf gods are looking down on you, and its not too long before you're amongst it again. Thanks for the DVD
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