Monday, June 7, 2010

inside out

This morning, on Ron's advice, andymac and my good self paddled out to an empty outside posso's - having always favored the inside side of things, it took a little to get in place, too wide, to deep, then i found it... whilst i didnt surf my best i sure enjoyed myself. Keith joined us, Lochie too, and we all shared a few great waves, the crowd grew by four after an hour or so - long paddle back to insides, which by then had thinned in crowd to 4 or 5, and we carried on the good work.
I surfed today for nearly 4 hours
Today at posso's a whale came in close
I shared waves with friends
I sure am tired now
Tired
...and happy

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