Monday, January 31, 2011

crowd dodging

The crowds on sunday drove me out of town to find a little space.
I scored Urkharts Bluff with only 6 out.
And clean
Somedays, when it all seems kinda impossible, you manage to score some empty ones.
Blessed

follow your nose

Friday, January 21, 2011

homesick

its like sea sickness, the exception being that you cant get of the boat, you just have to wait for the storm to cease.

I ache for home.
The people.
The small things.
The smell of it.

This reverie has taken me to places in my mind i'd rather not visit, floods of memories, reminiscence of evenings with friends, early hours  spend in quiet companionship with those that knew me as a child, and saw me become an adult. Music is trigger, and for some reason i cant avoid pulling that trigger over and over today.

I blame the SE wind.

And my friends and family.

for being so fucking awesome.

*the pic above is of an empty medicine bar, a converted warehouse that hosted nights of Substance.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Welcome home

clean water at poss, and shared it with just a couple of others.
loved this dudes style

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

one winter wave

a cold one
but nice all the same


Sunday, January 9, 2011

Monday, January 3, 2011

pub and ocean

 this is probably the greatest pub in the world, i spent most of the the summer weekends in this pub from 2003 -2006 - i love it
this is the beach that i learnt to surf at - and never really left, its always going to be special to me, it might be cold, and it might be a looooong paddle through walls of whitewater but its fun!

english surf






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