the last few days

These last few days have been ALL time - ive surf my brains out, swam, and been fully present - aquatic.

thursday night - this...

 perfect head high body surfing - looooooong walls - hooting and good vibes, and again quiet, im amazing and how quiet and peaceful this coast is - no crowds when you turn left or right, im discovering so much



Then today, if it was more fun i think i might have exploded - to kick things off, it was cold first thing, and beautiful - it reminded me of home, the grass was dewy, it was quiet - and i was sanguine - as usual.

yes...in both ways

i picked a bank - just one other out, it was a perfect peeler rifling along the little bank - shared with with noone - then I shared it with nick, with is better than sharing it with noone.

we split the a-frame - i look awkward, i probably was, but man, it was all time fun! -

then i shaped a new kind of handplane - hully, but without chine rails, to stop it pushing so much water, cant wait to glass it and try it...

then down the coast, for a body surfing session...new DaFin flips - i felt quick and responsive and rode a few all the way through

heres the best thing i saw this morning....

nick- jazzing the glass.