surfing dreams
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Monday, April 26, 2010
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Thursday, April 22, 2010
photos
This morning the fog was heavy, and the air wet.
All signs pointed to impossible.
But first i caught the essence of the morning in this, the photo above. A promise of warm sun.
Down the bumpy road. Skies now blue, braced, I stood on the drying reef and shot the following...
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Patience, hope and painkillers
Today was mixed.
The sun shone and the wind was straight north, as a passenger I suggested posso's, why not, worth a look, the first nudge of a new swell, cylinders was looking good, so worth the drive.
We get there, the beachcomber was getting some fun ones, so my companion paddled out, I called in a friend who brought me drinks and sat in the sun as i watched two buddies and a an assortment of others catch a few good ones.
Sasha and Jordan turned up, and posso's turned on, the wind got a little more west and the the waves contined to roll in through the tide. it looked awesome.
Meanwhile, I sat out, leg in brace, heart heavy, and watched great waves roll through, heard the hoots, saw the pleasure on the faces through the viewfinder.
Im telling myself that this is ok, that i will manage this, this long long wait of healing, but my insides today were telling a different story.
Its painful, in more ways than one, for one there are painkillers, for the other there is patience, and hope.
one more indignity, the computers have been fixed, the data has been transferred.
I get some awesome video today of Lee, sasha, Jordan, Andy, Keith...and then its disappears.
Feeling kinda cursed.
The sun shone and the wind was straight north, as a passenger I suggested posso's, why not, worth a look, the first nudge of a new swell, cylinders was looking good, so worth the drive.
We get there, the beachcomber was getting some fun ones, so my companion paddled out, I called in a friend who brought me drinks and sat in the sun as i watched two buddies and a an assortment of others catch a few good ones.
Sasha and Jordan turned up, and posso's turned on, the wind got a little more west and the the waves contined to roll in through the tide. it looked awesome.
Meanwhile, I sat out, leg in brace, heart heavy, and watched great waves roll through, heard the hoots, saw the pleasure on the faces through the viewfinder.
Im telling myself that this is ok, that i will manage this, this long long wait of healing, but my insides today were telling a different story.
Its painful, in more ways than one, for one there are painkillers, for the other there is patience, and hope.
one more indignity, the computers have been fixed, the data has been transferred.
I get some awesome video today of Lee, sasha, Jordan, Andy, Keith...and then its disappears.
Feeling kinda cursed.
Monday, April 19, 2010
injured
So Saturdays surf, fun filled, 5 hours logged on the log.
Sunday rolls round, not quite as clean but still some nicely sized waves rolling in.
I paddle out to the left of the boat ramp.
Its busy.
I take off and trim down the line.
A canoe(ist) is in the shallows so i kick out nice and early, to avoid dings in heads, angry words etc.
Kapow!
I discover in the emergency department this morning that i have a tear in my Medial Cruciate Ligament.
I go back in 4 weeks to see what state the ACL is in.
Brace for 4 weeks.
Physio.
8 weeks landlocked.
Unhappy.
Sunday rolls round, not quite as clean but still some nicely sized waves rolling in.
I paddle out to the left of the boat ramp.
Its busy.
I take off and trim down the line.
A canoe(ist) is in the shallows so i kick out nice and early, to avoid dings in heads, angry words etc.
Kapow!
I discover in the emergency department this morning that i have a tear in my Medial Cruciate Ligament.
I go back in 4 weeks to see what state the ACL is in.
Brace for 4 weeks.
Physio.
8 weeks landlocked.
Unhappy.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
sunrise
After yesterdays great waves, this morning was met with anticpation.
As is the way with such things, the morning greeted me with a different gift.
This.
so the wait for the tide begins, and i cross my fingers and hope that is northerly all day.
And the swell sticks around for another fun filled day of friends and waves.
As is the way with such things, the morning greeted me with a different gift.
This.
And the swell sticks around for another fun filled day of friends and waves.
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Photo loss and links a plenty
the wife shared a cup of tea with the laptop yesterday, and it seems the hard drive is fried. Potential loss of 4 years of photos and all of the movie.
On a plus note - the grove was super fun last night, approaching dark the swell jumped up a little and some nice sets rolled through, bumpy but fun. Back to work for me today, the 10 days off where plagued with SE winds, but i managed to find 3-4 windows where i got a few. The Happening happened in Melbourne and was enjoyed, good bands, fine photography/art, and nice to see a few people, the VicLoggin crew ( Vic Loggers ) were all there along with Murf, Craig the T-shirt whizz ( craigs blog ).
Saw Neil Halstead (a man from the hometown) - neil at myspace along with Zee Avi - zee avi and Matt Costa - Matt Costa
So, there are enough links on that page to shake a stick at, one more though, there was a preview of a new movie coming out soon, 180 (where is the degree symbol on this new mac!?) south.
Heres the link to the trailer - 180 south
Enough linkage, morning surf check, then work beckons.
On a plus note - the grove was super fun last night, approaching dark the swell jumped up a little and some nice sets rolled through, bumpy but fun. Back to work for me today, the 10 days off where plagued with SE winds, but i managed to find 3-4 windows where i got a few. The Happening happened in Melbourne and was enjoyed, good bands, fine photography/art, and nice to see a few people, the VicLoggin crew ( Vic Loggers ) were all there along with Murf, Craig the T-shirt whizz ( craigs blog ).
Saw Neil Halstead (a man from the hometown) - neil at myspace along with Zee Avi - zee avi and Matt Costa - Matt Costa
So, there are enough links on that page to shake a stick at, one more though, there was a preview of a new movie coming out soon, 180 (where is the degree symbol on this new mac!?) south.
Heres the link to the trailer - 180 south
Enough linkage, morning surf check, then work beckons.
Saturday, April 3, 2010
SE ruins my day
The wind this morning was (and still is, blowing from the SE. SE=surf the least.
So other jobs today take precedence, staying close to home in case that wind swings.
This is the only place i know that works on SE, but cant face the drive today.
So other jobs today take precedence, staying close to home in case that wind swings.
This is the only place i know that works on SE, but cant face the drive today.
The contemplator
Friday, April 2, 2010
First love movie, screening this sunday
Sunday 4 April / 8pm / Torquay Surf Museum
April 6 / Torquay Surf World / 6pm / 8pm
Friday April 9 / 7.30 / Banfields Cinema / Phillip Island
April 6 / Torquay Surf World / 6pm / 8pm
Friday April 9 / 7.30 / Banfields Cinema / Phillip Island
Tickets available for Torquay Screenings at Surf World, Surf City Plaza, Beach Road, Torquay Victoria 3228. (03) 5261 4606.
Tickets for the Phillip Island screening are available at Begin: Shop 3/107 marine Pde, San Remo (03)56785449 & Shop 1, 18-22 Thompson Ave Cowes, (03)59522209.
Tickets for the Phillip Island screening are available at Begin: Shop 3/107 marine Pde, San Remo (03)56785449 & Shop 1, 18-22 Thompson Ave Cowes, (03)59522209.
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