I'm not sure what kind of surfer i am, I'm even less certain what kind of "person" i am. I know that i have a pretty poor work ethic, but am enthusiastic and passionate and committed to some things in my life. Surfing is one of them, but its just one of them. Cooking for friends, my wife, taking pictures, writing with a fountain pen, these are other passions. But surfing eclipses most of them, i don't know why, not sure that i want to know, theres a mystery to it, an unconscious 'drive'.
There are some days when i don't feel like riding waves, even when they are small and clean and good - some days i just don't want to ruin the great waves i have in my mind with the waves i will ultimately ride, poorly.
Im not a great surfer, but i do love what i can do. Im barely above an average surfer, but i think im getting better. I know what I like, small waves, no bigger than me, with just a few others to share them with, these times are getting rarer - im becoming less interested in surfing "those" spots, most people know where i like to go, it might not be great, its slow, but sometimes its just me out there. Those days are rarer still.
Hey Pommie, we all just do our best and enjoy being in the ocean. We shouldn't get too caught up in who's better or good or whatever anyway, thats missing the point. Surfings about enjoying the ocean , enjoying waves, hanging with your mates, getting a kick out of seeing someone catch a good one. Surfings not just for Joel Tudor its for all of us, no rules, just fun. I've been surfing most of my life, I love it just because I do, thats my opinion anyway
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