a beachbeat - chops lacelles (chops himself) mini mal, 8ft something, quite thin, but with enough float to get me onto waves, i loved it, it was the board that made a difference.
Next up - a second skin minimal, eds stick - was manufactured under the second skin brand, more famous for custom wetsuits in the UK, the chap that runs this outfit, Andy Schollik wears a tape around his neck like a true tailor, ive had a few of his suits, Yakamoto rubber, excellent suits, too damn hot for these aussie waters but they served me well. The board was un-distinctive, and I never rode it much, but ed always flew on it! (second skin)
The log - a Gulf Stream 9'2" - 60/40 rails, pinched, a long concave, 2+1 fin set up - I never rode the nose on this, but I enjoyed surfing it, it wasnt a log, more a semi performance longboard. Gulf Stream make wonderful surfboards, and their glassing is second to none. They used to encourage you to touch their boards, not so much anymore. I was always a big fan of their stuff. Last time I was in the UK I called in, and the atmosphere seemed to have changed, maybe not, maybe my perspective has, I'm used to surf shops now, used to them being friendly to the point of intrusiveness, used to pulling up a stool and taking waves with friends and strangers alike, sharing opinion and advice and conjecture on surfboards...Gulfstream felt like a museum, austere. I tried conversation about "Saunton tail" I'm intrigued by the design, a Nuuhiva looking wide tail, but noone seems to want to chat, shame that, still, they are still doing lovely boards. (gulf stream) TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL????
And finally, the first board I owned, the worst thing I could ever have owned at time - a "mango" shortboard, 6'10" from memory. i remember buying it, well, ed bought it for me at the time I think...froma shop that now sells carpet in Braunton, at the top of the hill on the right hand side...the guy sold it to us, a pair of them, to learn on! - they seemed to have disappeared now. I couldnt comment on its function as I never caught a wave of any merit on it. They two of them blew off the roof one day as we were driving down the motorway, and we took up climbing and stopped surfing for years...one weekend, years later, we were down the coast once again, to climb maybe, maybe just to drink, and wandered into second skin, him if wetusit tailor fame, and got properly advised, bought two minimals and two suits and never turned back...
Many years later, Ed, to return the favor of my lavish spending, suggested a trip to Portugal, and it was then I met my wife, have since emigrated to Australia, taken to surfing with a studious love and passion, learnt to shape my own boards etc... so maybe the 6'10" shortboard was the best thing I ever bought....look at what it has given me?
