grove

takes my breath away some mornings.

too easy

lee, surfing possos, making it all look easy, one of the signs of a great surfer.

matt shay

rivermouth

Yesterday

Yesterday's entry was unnecessarily dark - the human paradox is thus - the paradox that a species that has by far the fewest contacts with direct sources of pain… through language is able to suffer with a degree of intensity, constancy and pervasiveness that is literally unimaginable in the nonhuman world. Because of [bi-directionality], we can judge ourselves and find ourselves to be wanting; we can imagine ideals and find the present to be unacceptable by comparison; we can reconstruct the past; we can worry about imagined futures; we can suffer with the knowledge that we will die.

The most fitting image, bland - empty and given colour, meaning emotion by our own perception...

Swimming

Nowadays, body surfing us on my mind. I'm stuck, dichotomous, perplexed and sometimes irritable at some poorly formed paradox in my head, I know what "I" enjoy...it's not the norm, it's not what people think surfing "is". I'd like to think I'm on with that, but a little bit of me isn't. I'm glad, because its a reminder that I'm human, that I'm victim to styles and cultures, but am committed to going my own way regardless.

Still, tomorrow I might try stand up surfing again...

sam

following beachcomber's pic, heres another snap of Sam, always stylin

a dark few days

its been a tough few days, my buddy ed left these shores, a few surf sessions tucked under his belt and many a frozen memory locked away in my mind. Good times and great waves.

It leaves me bereaved again, a strong work, but the only adjective that accurately captures the bleakness of having your longest, truest friend spend that kind of intense time with you, to be ripped asunder. He leaves a void that never gets properly filled.

To make do, I shaped myself a new board...B13, to commemorate some good times. I listened to moseley shoals, and old blues records, and the thievery corperation whilst I shaped and glassed. Its not the neatest of works, but im happy with it, its rough around the edges glassing wise, which is kind of how i felt whilst i made it. I reckon it'll go good.